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Super slicer gap fill9/28/2023 ![]() (For example I had a part with very big stringing problems but only on the inside of a specific wall. This problem can also effect the overall print quality of the part. I run into this problem multiple times already with different models using Cura.īut, atleast in older versions of Cura, if you go to the layer-view you can kind of preview/see the problem. The slicer cannot fill this gap as its to small for the nozzle, so it is left empty. Between these walls there is now a 0.2mm gap. So the printer will print 2 wall-perimeters (left and right) with a 0.4mm thickness. You now try to print a wall with a thickness of 1mm. Lets say your nozzle and output size is 0.4mm. It could be that the wall-thickness of the part you try to print is to thin or is not "compatible" with your nozzle size. I dont know if I understand you correctly, but let me try. Please look here or here for more information. If this is off you should readjust the steps per mm in the firmware (if you are able to do so), or increase the extrusion multiplier or flow in your slicer. Put a mark on the filament and extrude 100 mm using a tool like Pronterface or Repetier-host. You want to be certain that when you demand 100 mm of filament to extrude, you actually extrude 100 mm. Also check whether your extruder gear is not loose, re-tighten the grub screw.Check your extruder setup to see whether you have play or friction preventing filament to extrude freely. ![]() Be sure the slicer has the actual filament diameter as mentioned on the box, or measured at various points (if it varies, take the mean value).To fight under-extrusion you need to check a few things: This under-extrusion also may contribute to the vertical wall bonding problems you mention. Your print looks as if it has an under-extrusion problem as the lines on the faces are clearly not touching, you see the diagonals of the layers beneath. Now that you have posted a picture of your product I do not think the above is applicable to you. Both help position the head better for proper wall adhesion. I have faced the same issue if it concerns just gaps between the walls (to the point you could put a nail in between the outer and inner perimeters, so clearly the perimeters were not bonding), for me this was fixed with proper tension of the belts of my Prusa i3 clone, and for my other (CoreXY) printer reducing the friction of the X-Y system.
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